This splendid American brooch from 1944 represents one of the most refined examples of artistic costume jewelry from the wartime period. Made of vermeil, that is, gilded silver, it combines the elegance of precious metal with the brilliance of rhinestones — materials widely used at the time due to restrictions on noble metals during World War II.

At the center of the composition shines a large, step-cut green rhinestone, set in a mounting with sinuous, flame-like lines, almost vegetal in inspiration, that open like petals around the central gem. Small white rhinestones scattered along the metal scrolls enhance the light and movement of the design, creating a contrast of sparkle that gives the piece a strong theatrical presence.

The style of the brooch reflects the transition from the geometric elegance of Art Deco to the softer and more dramatic forms of the 1940s Retro period. The use of stylized natural motifs, combined with the choice of a vivid-colored stone, expresses a sense of vitality and hope even in difficult times.

Published in two important reference works — Costume Jewelry by Brunialti (p. 1771) and Costume Jewelers: The Golden Age of Design by Joanne Dubbs Ball (p. 72) — this brooch is now considered a valuable testament to the creativity and taste of American design of the era. With its generous dimensions (7.6 x 5.4 cm) and its balance between decorative strength and refined craftsmanship, it remains an iconic piece in the history of costume jewelry.

For this charitable initiative, Memorabid is responsible for collecting pre-auction bids.

The final closing of the lot will take place during the event on Tuesday, December 2nd, at 6:30 PM at Palazzo Broletto in Pavia.

At the end of the pre-auction, the highest bid received for each lot will constitute the starting bid for the in-person event. If there are no further bids, the pre-auction winner will definitively win the lot.

Pre-auction winners will receive an email inviting them to raise a maximum bid, which will be carried over to the auction on December 2nd to protect the interests of the online pre-auction participant.